5.26.2010

surf is up

Apparently I AM going to surf in Tofino this week.
we just got back, it was fantastic. we stayed with my parents, who were very excited to see us, but of course overjoyed to spend a few days with the zeke, even if he was waking up super early. they had a blast with him, and by the end he was mumbling something that resembled ge'ma or something. he loved being with them. and they certainly loved having him. They had been given the use of a beautiful home right ON chesterman north, short walk (5 minutes) to the wickaninnish inn. yeah. bad-ass.
so we watched surfers play in the waves for a while, and my mom said something like 'its a shame to be so close and not go in the water' and I replied that I just had expected not to go this time around. we were all pretty nonchalant about the whole thing, my mom suggested I go, I checked with the boss, and it was great. I went and got a board and a wetsuit, (a real beginners board, for once, finally) from LIVE TO SURF (the place to rent in Tofino, don't be deceived) and was in the water in less than half an hour from leaving the house. And this cabin, it was gorgeous, open plan, three bedrooms, ocean views everywhere. So I surfed for a few hours, checked to see if my half of the family had woken up yet, they were still sleeping, perfect, back in the water! I finally had learned to get up on the board. I have been surfing six times now, and I have finally gotten up on a board.
I love boards. I have spent most of my life skateboarding and my teenaged years in pursuit of money to go snowboarding, and both of those activities are, to my knowledge, as close as people can get who don't live near waves. I grew up knowing that I loved skateboarding and snowboarding, but if I had the chance, surfing would be it, for sure. and honestly? finally catching a good number of waves, getting up on the board? I was right, those videos, when you see someone riding the waves, it is exactly as fun as it looks, possibly more fun.
There are places where Dolphins come and surf with you, because they like to have fun too. Lord have mercy.
but then, like everything, what is the point? I guess fundamentally, what is the point of recreation? I think if I were really honest with myself, I should prefer sitting in silence and watching empty waves (no surfers) and contemplate my sin or the beauty of life. But as a good friend said recently (a photog from seattle) when we live in the world, and we find our calling in the pursuit of beauty, then it is our duty to live an epicurean life, not of excess, but to know what is beautiful and why and how to capture and recreate and give away that beauty, and to frame it to reveal its Source, perhaps. anyways, He said it a bit better, but it was a good thought.
I am so excited about my practicum, I think I have my placement, and it looks like it will be in the big smoke rather than the valley to start, which is fine. The school itself is good, and they have a good music program, so that is exciting. I have had a great recommendation of the choir teacher there from my former, JT, so that is reassuring.
I am sure we will end up in the valley at some point, but for now, we will be urbanites when we move back across the water. I will be sad to leave a lot of good people here, and a church I really am growing fond of. It has its moments, but we are all human, and I have seen a lot of growth and maturing and beauty happening, which is really fantastic to witness and to be a part of.
Bethany (good friend in the phillippines) is 34 weeks pregnant, and having intense nerve pain, pray for her.
Bucan Bucan is playing on saturday.
Tofino is amazing.
Kabuki Kabbing is going well, hopefully the weather begins to suck less and less.
I wrenched my shoulder while surfing, I always like to have a good injury story so that I can say "I was surfing in the Tofino the other day" I am sure if there is any reward to be had in heaven, I have had most of mine down here from all of my story telling and the instant gratification that brings. anyways.



OH! David B Hart's Atheist Delusions! This is an amazing book. I will never debate anyone about atheism again, unless I am a priest 30 years from now and someone asks, but in that case too, I will simply hand them a copy of this book and say, read this, then lets talk. or, if they need to dialogue, I will read sections from it, and then we will talk about it. It is amazing. I hope to do a proper book review of it, but if you need a good book that is challenging, THIS is the one book. I don't think I recommend many books on here, though maybe. no idea. anyways. read it. buy it. borrow it. do it. David B Hart. Atheist Delusions. fantastic.

oh, and I got up with zeke this morning at 6, after he was awake for an hour, and took him down to the beach. It was awesome. the tide was out, the beach was huge and we were almost alone on it. I let him wander quite a ways away from me, 50 yards maybe, and I was poking around some rocks or something and I looked back and he had fallen on his bum into a tiny creek and was just sitting there, water soaking his PJ's, content. the creek was millimetres deep, like beach creeks are, but it was cold water nonetheless. so he was wet. he was wearing PJ's, boots and a puffy vest.
we carried on a bit, found lots of interesting things, and then went and got dried off. he loved it. I did too.
I love being a Dad.

3 comments:

RW said...

dude.
well done.
luke surfed for the first time in Maui and he loved it.
he is a natural.
maybe you could go together some day.

love to hear the energy in your voice.

elizabeth said...

happy! yay for surf, yay for being a Dad, yay for a lovely time! Yay for a good read!

I've been thinking about this too; must be a balance - create a new heart in me AND "fill me with joy and gladness, let the bones which You have broken rejoice"...

Victoria said...

sounds like a perfect weekend.